If you are bringing bolts to Cuba, either to place yourself or to donate for route exploration by the Cuban climbers, please don’t bring or place bolts and hangers that will corrode and break. Don’t let the bullet-proof rock fool you, Cuba is the potential perfect storm for bad bolts. Bring only the most corrosion resistant bolts and hangers possible. Right now, that metal is titanium. Titanium anchors are expensive, but are becoming the standard at tropical climbing areas, and a UIAA-certified titanium anchor is now on the market. In the long run, for bolts in Cuba to be safe for more than a few years will require complete titanium anchors – one-piece glue-ins or complete bolt/hanger combinations. This will be the requirement for Class 1 anchors being developed by the UIAA safety commission for places such as Cuba and Thailand. For more information on bolts for Cuba, go to our Gear Donation page.
