ROUTES BY AREA -
Mogote del Valle
Mogote del Valle can be seen to the
northwest from town, with the fiery gold of Milenio and gaping Cueva de
Cabeza la Vaca easily identifiable. This is where most of the route
exploration has taken place since 2000. More than three-quarter of the
routes in the valley are on the walls of the Mogote del Valle. These
include the areas named Campismos, Esquina Caliente, Jaguayana, Cueva
Larga, La Yunta, Guajiro Ecológico, Guajiro Nivaldo, Summertime, Los
Tormentos, Milenio, Ensenada de Raúl (which includes Muralla Pitu, Punta
Repaso, Trozo del Lider, Ensensada Escondrijo, Torre Blanca), Arista de
Filo de Cuchilla, Torre La Muerte del Menoco, Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
(which includes Piedra Mi Cusi, Wasp Factory Caverna, El Rocódromo, and
Esquina de Los Guajiros Americanos), and Vega de Pelon (which includes
Jaruquiño, Paredón de Josué, and Sector Geisha). The closest routes are
about one kilometer from town; the farthest are four to five.
To get there, from the intersection of
Salvador Cisneros, the main street through Viñales, and Adela Azcuy, walk
out of town to the north, toward the baseball stadium. All the routes,
except those on the other side at the Campismo, can be reached down that
road. After .5 km, it becomes a dirt road and crosses through fields. After
passing some bohios (traditional Cuban farm houses), the road turns
right and climbs a slight grade. Near the top of the rise, turn left at an
open gate into a farm. There is now a large sign there identifying it as
the farm (vega) of Raúl Reyes (one of the climbing areas above the
farm is "La Ensenada de Raúl"). This campesino have been extremely
helpful and generous. Sit down, visit with Raúl, and try some of his fresh
fruits. Please respect his gate-closures, crops, and animals. Raúl nephew,
Caco Reyes, is one of the local climbers, and Raúl's family rents an
excellent room in town.
The entrance to Raúl vega is an
excellent vantage point to locate the major walls and areas at Mogote del
Valle. Directly across the fields is the overhanging alcove of Cueva de
Cabeza la Vaca, with its concrete steps; the gold wall to the right of the
steps is Esquina de Los Guajiros Americanos. The road into the vega and
past Raúl's house ends at a gate and Torre La Muerte del Menoco. To the
left is the prominent arete/arista of Filo de Cuchilla. The opening to its
left is the entrance into the Ensenada de Raúl. Farther to the left, the
red and gold wall is Milenio and to its left the long grey wall of Los
Tormentos. Out of sight to the left around the corner are Guajiro
Ecológico, Cueva Larga, and Jaguayana.
After entering Raúl Reyes' farm, walk
down the dirt road past the farmhouse to a fenced pasture. There is trail
to the right and a ladder to climb over the fence to the pasture. Or
continue along the dirt road to its end and a gate.
There is a shorter, direct route from
town to Jaguayana, Cueva Larga, Yunta, and Guajiro Ecológico. Start as
above from the intersection of Salvador Cisneros and Adela Azcuy and head
north pass the baseball stadium. After the eighth house on the left, take a
path between houses, across a usually dry creek bed, through tobacco fields,
and past a couple of tobacco drying sheds. At a very large jaguay tree,
there is another vantage point for orientation. Straight ahead is Yunta.
Twenty meters to the left and up from Yunta, a trail leads to the entrance
down into Cueva Larga. To the left a couple of hundred meters is Jaguayana,
partially hidden behind the large jaguey for which it is named. A hundred
meters or more to the right of Yunta is Guajiro Ecológico, its base hidden
behind coffee trees and a large Royal Palm.
Walking out of town on Sergio Dapico,
which is one block west of Adela Azcery, also leads directly to Jaguayana,
Yunta, and Cueva Larga.
Also, there are new routes on the other
side of Mogote del Valle near the road that goes toward the testament to
bad taste known as the Mural de la Prehistoria and to El Campismo Dos
Hermanos. These are the first routes described below.
Campismo
This area is the site of the first completed route in Viñales, and of new
developments in 2002 and 2003 by all-Cuban teams. Head west out of Viñales
on the road to Moncada, and about 2 km from town turn right onto the road
toward Mural de la Prehistoria and El Campismo Dos Hermanos. The routes
closest to town are located soon after the turn toward the Mural-Campismo
at the southeast corner of the Mogote.
The first routes below are at El
Campismo. Follow the road to Mural Campismo almost to the Campismo, almost
across from a red clean wall on the right. The right side has caves and
chimney, and it is where the first recorded route, "Columbia y El Caiman
del Caribe" goes. It probably starts in the small cave at the base of
the red wall and climbs a natural line up a gully. The first three routes
are all to the left of "Columbia y El Caiman del Caribe."
1. Pantalones Apretados. 5.9 / 5
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2003. Josué Millo and Isaias Diaz.
This and next route go to the same anchor. The two routes are 15 meters to
the left of the tall wall of Cuenta Con La Pelona.
2. Vaca y Poyitos. 5.10a-b / 6a
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2003. Josué Millo and Alberto Javiel Leivas.
Start up the edge of a small overhang a couple of meters right of
Pantalones Apretados.
3. Cuenta Con La Pelona. 5.11a / 6b+
4 pitches 110 M
Bolted
First Ascent: 2003. Josué Millo and Reiniel Sosa
This long route could become a classic. The first two pitches may be only
5.9 / 5 - 6. The third pitch is the crux. The fourth is steep, sustained,
but short.
4. Colombia y El Caiman del Caribe. 5.10 / 5+ - 6b
2-3 pitches 120M
Gear
First Ascent: 1998. Alberto Morales, Vitalio Echazábal, Carlos Pinelo
This is the first recorded route in the valley. It is on the west side of
Mogote del Valle across from the mural on Mogote Dos Hermanos. The route
goes to a large Drago palm. The Cubans first called the route "Via del
Drago." The story of Morales trip to Cuba, early climbing in Cuba, and
brief account of this climb were written up by Morales for his Colombian
climbing club, "Escalar en Cuba" Expedición", Año 2
No. 2, DiciembreFebrero 1998/99, page 5-6.
5. ¿Y Tu De Que Te Ries? 5.11d / 7a
One pitch: 22M (2nd pitch is still a project of Alberto Leivas)
Bolted
First Ascent: April 2005. Alberto Leivas, Josué Millo, and Jessy Gómez
Since exact location of Colombia y El Caiman del Caribe is uncertain, this
route may follow some of the original route. The start is about 10 or more
meters to left of Cuenta Con La Pelona, and 2M left of Makandal.
Esquina Caliente
6. Sibaricu. 5.10a / 5+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Aníbal Fernández and Abel Pérez
Climbs a chimney.
7. Makandal 5.10c / 6a+
One pitch 35m
Bolts and fixed treads
First ascent: July, 2002. Aníbal Fernández.
A second wall about 200M to the right from the Campismo. From town, follow
the road to a clean red wall on the right, about 300m from Cuenta con la
Pelona. Start in the small cave at the base of the red wall and climb the
chimney. The route climbs a natural line up a gully.
8. Madam Gruchenca 5.12d / 7c
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Aníbal Fernández and Alexei Suárez.
It climbs an inside corner.
9. Naufragio. 5.11c / 6c+
One pitch
bolted
First ascent: Aníbal Fernández and Alexei Suárez.
The route uses the first two bolts of Titanic.
10. Titanic. 5.11c / 6c+
One pitch 30m
Bolted
First ascent: July, 2002. Aníbal Fernández and Josué Millo.
The route climbs the left face of the arete.
Esquina Hollywood
11. Tarzan. 5.11a / 6b+.
One pitch 35m
Gear
First ascent: July, 2002. Aníbal Fernández
This route is at the corner of the Mogote del Valle nearest to the road
after the turn onto the road to El Campismo. It is a small gray crag hidden
behind trees and about 50m from the road across a cultivated field. Climb
the roots of the big tree in the base of the crag, right under the arete,
using treads as pro, then go for the crack to the right of the arete,
protecting it with stoppers and cams (medium sizes). Bolts at the belay.
Rappel the left side of the arete.
Jaguayana
About 100m or more to the left of Yunta Wall and Cueva Larga is a small
partly hidden wall behind some trees, particularly a large jaguay. Because
of the shade, it is a comfortable place to climb in the heat or sun. The
Cubans say Jaguayana sounds Hawaiian in Spanish. Jaguayana is two walls,
the left side behind the Jaguay, where there is also a cavernous corner,
and the open area on the right.
12. Diana. 5.10d / 6b
One pitch. Almost 35M.
Bolted
First ascent: Dec., 2004. Aníbal Fernández and Reiniel Sosa
The route is far to left of main wall and cave of Aserejé. Starts at a
crack and climbs past a cave. The route can be done and rappelled with 60M
rope, with caution. [¿location?]
13. Avalancha. 5.11c / 6c+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Dec., 2004. Josué Millo and Fransua Bosmenier
14. Mister Feo. 5.11b / 6c
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Dec., 2004. Josué Millo and Fransua Bosmenier
15. Tubo de Roca. 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Dec., 2004. Josué Millo and Adrián Pérez
Start uses the first 2 bolts of Arco de Josué, then follow chimney feature
to Arco de Josué anchor.
16. Arco de Josué. 5.10d - 11a / 6b - b+
One pitch 25M
Bolted 10 bolts
First ascent: April, 2002. Josué Millo and David Ryan
This route starts on the left edge of the cavernous corner and arches over
the lip to the crux.
17. Brutus. 5.12a / 7a+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Adrián Pérez
Up the inside of roof.
18. Lluvia de Meteroritos. 5.11b / 6c
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Israel (?)
19. Aserejé. 5.10c / 6a+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2003. Aníbal Fernández.
Start to the right of the cave, about 5m from Arco de Josué. Up onto shelf,
pull over a small roof on left. Traverse right and up smooth face or climb
corrugated rib to right. This has become a popular climb at its grade.
20. Rastra Crack. 5.10d / 6b
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2003. Aníbal Fernández.
Another 3-4M to right of Aserejé.
21. Dulce Coco. 5.11b / 6c
One pitch 30M-
Bolted 9 bolts
First ascent: April 21, 2002. Aníbal Fernández
Another crack about 3M right of Rastra Crack.
22. Katja Me Punza. 5.11d / 7a
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2003. Aníbal Fernández.
3M to right of previous route.
23. El Salto de la Pelúa. 5.10d - 11d / 6b - 7a
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2003. Aníbal Fernández.
Just another 1M right. Salto means leap. This athletic route can be
done by a dyno to the jug, or it has been climbed static. Thus the range of
ratings. It was the location of a broken ankle when the belayer did not
catch el salto.
24. Catamaran. 5.12a / 7a+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2005, recorded as Josué Millo and Reiniel Sosa, although may
have first been climbed by a visiting climber from Argentina.
This is the arete that splits the two walls of Jaguayana.
25. Ana Banana. 5.11b / 6c
One pitch 23M
Bolted 9 bolts
First Ascent: April 21, 2002. Abel Pérez
The right side of Jaguayana has two small walls, joined at an inside
corner. This route is in the middle of the clean wall that forms the left
side of the corner. Ana Banana is an excellent and popular route.
26. Pikin. 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch 22M
Bolted 7 bolts
First Ascent: April 21, 2002. Abel Pérez
This is the crack that forms the inside corner. It is harder than it looks.
27. Bititi. 5.10d / 6b
One pitch
Bolted
First Ascent: 2003. Aníbal Fernández.
This route is on the wall a couple meters to the right of Pikin .
28. Tiburón Siguato. 5.11b / 6c
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2003. Aníbal Fernández.
The final three route on the right side of Jaguayana are to the right of a
tree on the wall.
29. Tacto Rectal. 5.12a / 7a+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2003. Aníbal Fernández and Josué Millo.
30. Miseria Prieta. 5.12b / 7b
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2003. Aníbal Fernández and Josué Millo.
Cueva Larga
Cueva Larga (the long cave) is hidden from view. It is a deep hallow formed
by a pair of facing walls, which ascend for close to 100 meters. The walls
are largely parallel and are separated by between 4 and 20 meters. Approach
by passing about 25 M to the left of Yunta and taking a trail up into the
trees. The trail turns back right to the entrance to Cueva Larga, which
involves a 3 M downclimb.
Left Wall / Pared Izqierda
31. La Via Mas Facil en Cuba 5.6 / 3+
1 pitch 15M
Gear. Can be done with threads
First ascent: April 11, 2001. David Ryan and Armando Menocal.
The name is sufficient: the easiest route in Cuba. The route starts just
outside the entrance to Cueva larga and climbs the left wall to a large
tree.
32. Disneylandia. 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alison Andur.
Also starts just before downclimb into Cueva Larga proper, but it turns
corner just above drop into cave and ascends the left wall inside Cueva
Larga.
33. Mambises y Maulets 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch 30M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. Edward Viana and Carlos Pinelo
The first route from base up the left wall of Cueva Larga. It starts 2 M to
the right of the entrance.
34. Calzo de Guagua 5.11d / 7a
One pitch 30M
Bolted
First Ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco and Aníbal Fernández
The route starts 4 M to the right of Mambises y Maulets.
35. Don Cojete de La Mancha. 5.13a-b / 7c+ - 8a
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Flaco (Adrián) Pérez
36. Amigos en el Tope, Ahora y Para
Siempre. 5.12d / 7c
One pitch
bolted 14 quickdraws recommended
First Ascent: André Laperrière, Markus Leicht, and Josué Millo
Don Cojete de La Mancha and this route share the same anchor.
37. Maybe. 5.11d / 7a
one pitch
bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Guro Ianssen
38. Contra Espada y Pared. 5.12 / 7a+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas
39. Oculta Obsesión 5.11b-c / 6c+
One pitch 30M
Bolted
First Ascent: May, 2001. Edward Viana and Carlos Pinelo
The route starts 12 M to the right of Calzo de Guagua.
40. On Belay Hombre. 5.11d -12a / 7a
One pitch
Bolted 6 bolts
First ascent: April 20, 2002. Josué Millo, David Ryan, John Sloan
The start is 4M to the right of Ocucta Obsessión. For the story behind the
name, go to the article by Jonathan Miles in the November, 2001, of Men's
Journal.
41. Leche de Mipa. 5.11b / 6c
One pitch
bolted
First ascent: Aníbal Fernández and Loisbel Silvelio.
42. [Project of Josué Millo]
Vitalidad: Right Wall / Pared Derecha
43. [Project]
44. Hilo Dental. 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch
3 or 4 bolts
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco and Aníbal Fernández
The next three routes go to the first belay at the ledge-cave of the
original Fernando's Hide-a-Way route. This route is the thin crack almost
directly below the ledge-cave. Hilo Dental means dental floss in spanish,
but it is also Cuban slang for thong bikinis.
45. Pelos en La Orilla. 5.11a / 6b+
1 pitch
Bolted 4 bolts
First ascent: 2003. Josué Millo and Alberto Javiel Leivas.
Another variation of the first pitch of Fernando's Hide-A-Way.
46. La Cuevita 5.9 / 5
1 pitch
bolted
First ascent: Jan. 9, 2001. Fernando Paulete
This is the original first pitch of Fernando's Hide-A-Way that ends at the
ledge and cave. The cave goes through the wall and opens on the other side
into the valley. From the valley side, this cave can be identified as the
parachute-shaped cave to the right the Yunta Wall and slightly above the
top of Jardinero/Negrita anchors. The cave is short, well-lit, and has a
flat sandy floor. On at least one occasion it served as the bivy ledge for
a visiting climber. Because of its moderate grade, the original first pitch
is popular and has been named La Cuevita by Cubans.
47. Yerri y Mirol. 5.12b / 7b
1 pitch 27m
Bolted 8 bolts
First ascent: 2005 or 06. Josué Millo and Alberto Javiel Leivas.
Start up the first couple of bolts of La Cuevita, and where it goes left to
the ledge, continue up the overhang to an independent anchor. Yerri and
Mirol are the nicknames that Millo and Leivas use for each other. Millo
said that the name was to honor their friendship.
48. Fernando's Hide-a-Way. 5.11a - b / 6c+
P1: 5.9. P2: 5.11b - c. P3: 5.7
3 pitches 40M+
Bolted P1: 5 bolts. P2: 6 bolts. P3: 4 bolts
First ascent: Jan. 9, 2001. Fernando Paulete
The second pitch exits the cave on the left, and the third pitch reaches
the apex of the right wall.
49. Contigo En La Distancia. 5.12c / 7b+
One pitch
Bolted 8 bolts
First ascent: Paul Laperrière, Markus Leicht, and Josué Millo
Millo said that its a love song -- and reflects the distance to the bolts.
50. Chipojito. 5.10a / 5+ - 6a
1 pitch 30M
Bolted 13 bolts
First ascent: Jan. 9, 2001. Vitalio Echazábal and Armando Menocal
Chipojito and the next route, Chipojo, were the first routes climbed after
Cueva Larga was discovered. The two routes join at an edge (after the 8th
and 7th bolt respectively) and share the same finish and top anchor.
Chipojo-Chipojito continue up left along the edge. Another variation,
Unnamed, starts from this juncture and goes up and right to an independent
anchor on the wall's rim.
51. Chipojo. 5.10a / 5+ - 6a
1 pitch 30M
Bolted 13 bolts
First ascent: Jan. 8, 2001. Aníbal Fernández, Fernando Paulete
The right wall is also called the Hollow Wall, because in places, the wall
is a thin plate, that was easily penetrated when drilling bolts. Caution,
the plates and the tufa columns can breakoff.
52. Papi. 5.11a / 6b+
1 pitch extension
Bolted 9 bolts
First ascent: December, 2004. Paul Laperrière, Markus Leicht, and Christine
Nantel.
This variation of the upper section of Chipojo-Chipojito goes up and right
to an independent anchor on the wall's rim. It could be called Chipojo
Direct. The day Laperrière finished the route he received a call with the
news that his father had died. Thus, Papi is a tribute to Laperrière's
father.
53. Tetas Mediterráneas 5.11a / 6b+
1 pitch 30M
Bolted 15 bolts
First ascent: Jan. 8, 2001. Vitalio Echazábal
"Tetas Mediterráneas" means Mediterranean Breasts. The name? The
route climbs the rounded protrusions.
54. Bajaychupa 5.11a - b / 6b+ - c
One pitch 25-30M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco and Rosa Catalá
The route starts 2 M left of the entrance. "Bajaychupa" is Cuban
slang for a woman's halter, combining "pull down" and
"suck." And the route is next to Tetas Mediterráneas.
55. Pelos de Rubias. 5.10b / 6a
1 pitch
bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Stephanie, a visiting German climber, who no
doubt was a blond.
56. Alcoholicos Sin Fronteras. 5.10c / 6a+
1 pitch
bolted
First ascent: Aníbal Fernández
57. Por Arriba del Bolt. 5.12a / 7b+
1 pitch
bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo
58. [Project of Josué Millo]
La Yunta
This is the front side of Cueva Larga. The climbers who did these routes
spent the days listening to the cries of "Jardinero" and
"Negrita" by the campesino who was plowing the field next to the
climbs with his oxen, Jardinero and Negrita.
59. Yunta. 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch 14M
Bolted 4 bolts
First ascent: Jan. 7, 2001. Jorge Mederos
Yunta means an ox team. The route climbs the blocky feature at the left
edge of the wall.
60. Negrita. 5.9 / 5
1 pitch 30M
Gear Up to #2 Cam
First ascent: Jan. 6, 2001. Fernando Paulete, Troy Stephens
Negrita follows an intermittent crack that diagonals from left to right.
The original Negrita and Jardinero finished at the same anchor.
61. La Mulatisima. 5.10b-c / 6a - a+
1 pitch
Bolted 7 or 8 bolts
First ascent: April 9, 2006. Josué Millo and Armando Menocal
This is a variation of Negrita, but bolted and with a direct start and
finish and a separate anchor than Negrita-Jardinero. It reflects the trend
by leading first ascentionists to bolt the few moderate routes that were
originally done with gear. These routes had become obscure because the
Cuban climbers rarely have the gear to attempt the routes. Start at the
base of Jardinero. First bolt is about 4M to left of first bolt of
Jardinero, and the route goes straight up, and joins and follows the
central section of Negrita. Then, as Negrita continues its diagonal to
right, La Mulatisima continues its course straight up to independent
anchor. La Mulatisima and Jardinero are superb moderate climbs.
62. Jardinero. 5.10a / 5+ -6a
1 pitch 30M
Bolted 9 bolts and threads
First ascent: Jan. 7, 2001. Aníbal Fernández, Fernando Paulete
Months after the first ascent, wasps reclaimed the crux hueco. The nest
gets cleared, but watch for their return. Otherwise, this is an excellent
route.
Mural del Guajiro Ecológico
This section of the Mogote del Valle, from Ostraman to Avispicidio, was at
first called "The Wall of Wasps", but there were several other
worthy nominees for that title. The routes still reflect this legacy.
"Polvo Piojillo" is the guajiros' (farmers') name for the
insecticide climbers have used as well. "Avispicidio" is a
amalgam of wasps and suicide. Spaniard David Brasco with the help of
Española Rosa Catalá and different Cuban climbers took on the wasps and put
up nine hard routes in May, 2001. Progress against the wasps is only
temporary: ascents often require re-application of "polvo
piojillo."
63. Ostraman. 5.10a - b / 6a
Two pitches 45M
All gear. Cams up to 3 1/2". Lower section takes mostly stoppers.
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco and Aníbal Fernández
This is the crack at the left of the Guajiro Ecológico Wall. For descent,
there are two bolts at the anchor: either use two 60M ropes or rappel to an
intermediate tree, from which a 60M rope reaches the ground. The route's
name is not a play on Yosemite's famous crack Astroman, but named for a
pearl that a local climber has speared to an intimate place. The meager
available gear has meant that the climb is rarely done.
64. Habla Bien. 5.12a / 7a+
One pitch
bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas.
This and the next route are just 3 meters to the left of Béjuco Colorado.
65. Peregrinos. 5.11b / 6c
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas.
Starts just to the left of Béjuco Colorado, but goes to its anchor. This is
one of the five routes that end at the Béjuco Colorado belays.
66. Béjuco Colorado. 5.11d - 5.12a / 7a - a+
One pitch <30M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco, Rosa Catalá, Nivaldo Diaz
This the first route on the left side of the large clean wall behind the
cafetera (grove of coffee trees). It starts next to a large palm.
67. Vida Ingrata. 5.12d / 7c
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas.
Starts up the face, but joins the final bolts and anchor of Béjuco
Colorado.
68. Vibracion Interior. 5.13b / 8a
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas.
Starts up the face, but joins the final bolts and anchor of Béjuco
Colorado.
69. Polvo Piojillo. 5.11b / 6c
One pitch <30M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco, Rosa Catalá, Nivaldo Diaz
The route starts 10M to the right of Béjuco Colorado, along the left edge
of a small left-facing open book, and climbs to the same anchor as Béjuco
Colorado.
70. Carcharodón 5.12b / 7b
One pitch <30M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco, Rosa Catalá, Nivaldo Diaz
The route's name is a warning about the sharpness of the rock: carcharodón
means the teeth of the Tiger Shark. It starts just one meter to the right
of Polvo Piojillo.
71. Ranas Pelúas 5.11c / 6c+
One pitch <30M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco, Rosa Catalá, Nivaldo Diaz
The route finishes at the anchors of Carcharodón, and starts one meter to
its right.
72. El Fantasma de la Ópera. 5.10b / 6a
One pitch <30M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco, Rosa Catalá, Nivaldo Diaz
The route starts under a small overhang 4 M to the right of Ranas Pelúas,
and goes to an independent anchor. Many climbers conclude that the route is
a grade higher than its rating.
73. La Vida es Bella. 5.11d / 7a
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Jordy Tejero
74. Psicosis. 5.11a / 6a+
2 pitches (1) 5.10d / 6a. (2) 5.11a / 6a+
Bolted
First Ascent: Josué Millo and Turbo (Jusnir) Blanco
75. Salta pa la Chapeao. 5.12a / 7a+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Flaco (Adrián) Pérez
Shares anchor with first pitch of Psicosis.
76. Cusacutuza. 5.9 - 10a / 6a
1 pitch
Bolted
First Ascent: Josué Millo and Turbo (Jusnir) Blanco
This is probably the original, unbolted Fire Down Below. Millo found an old
sling over a rock at the belay. If so, the different ratings must be
clarified. Millo has worked on a second pitch. The name, Cusacutuza, refers
to a Russian cartoon character, once common on Cuban TV.
77. Fire Down Below 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch
Gear
First ascent: March 17, 2000. Paul Tichner, Frank Zacherl
The exact location of the route was always uncertain. The name: Tichner and
Zacherl started a fire on the ground and climbed in a fog, thinking that
smoke deterred wasps.
78. El Beso de la Avispa. 5.12c / 7b+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Martín Moline and Ariel Pascualetti
79. [Project of Josué Millo, to El Beso de la Avispa anchor]
80. El Hombre y La Tierra. 5.11d-12a / 6c+ -7a
1 pitch 25m
Bolted 8 bolts
First ascent: Josué Millo and Yulien ??
Climbs to an independent anchor.
81. Julia Merece. 5.10b / 6a
1 pitch 20m
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Yulien ??
About 20 meters left of Avispicidio. Climbs to an independent anchor.
82. Avispicidio. 5.10b (consensus: at least 10d) / 6a - b
One pitch 25M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco, Aníbal Fernández
The route is next to a thin crack that splits the wall that is 25M to the
right of El Fantasma de la Ópera.
83. [Project of Josué Millo]
About 2 m to right of Avispicidio; anchor done, but not yet bolted.
Guajiro Nivaldo
This grey wall, with a higher red wall, is 45M to the right of Avispicidio.
Malaje and Una Larga Amistad Con Dos Bolas de Cariño are on either side of
a chimney that splits the wall.
84. Malaje. 5.11c / 6c+
One pitch 25M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco, Nivaldo Diaz
The route starts 45M to the right of Avispicidio.
85. Una Larga Amistad Con Dos Bolas
de Cariño 5.10c-d / 6a+ - b
One pitch 25M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco, Nivaldo Diaz
Summertime
Mis Dos Spits and Medio Bandido are on the overhanging, diagonal wall about
45M to the right and up from Malaje-Una Larga Amistad Con Dos Bolas de
Cariño. Polaca de Oro and Summertime are on the wall on the right.
86. Mis Dos Spits 5.11c / 6c+
One pitch <30M
Bolted
First ascent: 2001. Helmut Gargitter, Josué Millo, Pauli Trenkwalde
The routes start in the base, and far left of the cavern that divides the
walls.
87. Medio Bandido 5.12b - c / 7 b - b+
One pitch <30M
Bolted
First ascent: 2001. Helmut Gargitter, Josué Millo, Pauli Trenkwalder
Also start from the base of the cavern.
88. Polaca de Oro. 5.11b-c / 6c - c+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2004. Aníbal Fernández and Josué Millo
Start up at back of cavern, and climb up the right hand wall.
89. Summertime. 5.11c-d / 6c+ - 7a
1 pitch 28 M
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2004. Aníbal Fernández, Yarobys Garcia, and Josué
Millo.
Start at the base of the right hand wall. The route is moderate (5.9 / 5)
until a roof.
Pared de Los Tormentos
The paredes of Tormentos and Mileno are the tall, generally west-facing
walls, which commence after the turn of the mogote to the right or north.
Milenio is the flaming gold wall towering above the vega (farm) of Raúl
Reyes. Tormentos are the two grey walls to the left of Milenio. These
routes and the other routes encircling the vega of Raúl Reyes can be
located after entering the fence onto the vega. Milenio's red and gold wall
will be on the left. The dirt road passes several farmhouses, goes along a
fenced pasture, and ends at another fence and gate, directly below Torre X.
At the gate, turn left to follow a trail to the Arista de Filo de Cuchilla
and the out of sight and secluded Ensenada de Raúl. Farther to the right is
the striking Caverna of Wasp Factory/Avispas and Cueva Cabeza la Vaca at
the top of the concrete steps. The trails to these sites often change with
the seasons; for example the entire pasture below the Cueva Cabeza la Vaca
has flooded after heavy rains and hurricanes. So, ask at the farmhouses how
best to reach your destination.
90. Guao, Guano, y Espina 5.10b - c / 6a - a+
P-1: 5.10a. P-2: 5.10b-c. P-3: 5.10b
3 pitches 80M. Pitches 2 and 2 are exactly 30M each
Bolted P-1: 5 bolts. P-2: 10 bolts. P-3: 12 bolts
First ascent: April 7-8, 2001. Fernando Paulete, Carlos Pinelo, David Ryan
The route name is a warning, named for the hazards found on the each pitch.
The first pitch is "Guao", which is Cuba's version of poison
oak/ivy. It attacked those who cut the trail to the base and start of
route. Do not be misled, however. There is guao on the second and third
pitches as well, and guao stumps stubbornly cling to wall, particularly
endangering the rappel. "Guano" is the bat scat in the cave at
the start of the second pitch. "Espina" are the thorns on the
cactus, which if you are fortunate will no longer be at the crux handhold.
Once it gets cleaned up, the route should become one of the most popular
climbs at its grade. There are two approaches: from the left and right. The
original, right approach is: To the left and at the base of Milenio Wall,
there is a large boulder with "Clases de Fisuras". And to the
left of that there is a trail which reaches the wall with "Guao,
Guano, y Espina". Scramble up the rock and vertical dirt for 30'. The
current approach is from the field on the left, and ascends right to reach
the point where the scramble starts.
91. Mas Tarde 5.10 b-c / 6a - a+
3 pitches Same difficulty for the 3 pitches, each 25-30 m.
Bolted 12 quickdraws recommended
First ascent: December 18, 2005. Paul Laperrière and André Laperrière
Access: same than Guao, Guano, Y Espina. About 50 on the right. And thanks
to Paul and André, the original trail is better now. The route is the right
of the two prominent pilars. Paul's comments, "The first pitch is good
but the second and third one are really great. Look at the photo on the
ridge, it's amazing. The view of the valley is magnificent from the top
belay, in the small cave. It is already a classic route around Viñales .
Accessible, the climbing is great on each pitches and it is the same
difficulty for the three pitches. The scenery is spectacular. The reason we
called the route Mas Tardes is because we cleaned the route for so long
that we did came back very late at Oscar's place. Our friends came to cliff
with lamps just to be sure there is no problems."
92. Clases de Fisuras 5.10+ / 6a+ - b
1 pitch 10M
Gear
First ascent: April, 2001. Aníbal Fernández
Approach: To the left and at the base of Milenio Wall, there is a large
boulder with "Clases de Fisuras".
Milenio Wall
All but one of the routes on Milenio's dappled wall of red and gold are
reached by a trail to the right of large boulders under the cliff. The
trail is steep, and goes along the edge of a cafetera, a grove of coffee
trees. Please respect the farmer's delicate coffee trees and do not use
them to pull yourself up or arrest your descent. The other route, Living La
Via Loco, is the left-hand edge of Milenio Wall. A faint trail from the
left of the boulders goes to the start.
93. Living La Via Loca 5.11 / 6b+ -7a
One pitch 30M
All gear, with two bolts at the start and finish. Stoppers and cams to 2
1/2"
First ascent: 2001. Aníbal Fernández and Jorge Mederos
The route is the crack that is the left-hand edge of Milenio Wall. A faint
trail goes to the start. The trail to Living La Via Loco start on the left
of the boulders at the base of Milenio. Because of the shortage of gear the
route has had few ascents, and Aníbal Fernández has long planned to bolt
the route to make it available to climbers.
94. Milenio 5.11c - 5.12a / 6c+ - 7a+
P1: 5.10a. P2: 5.11a-b. P3: 5.11c/5.12a
3 pitches 60M
Gear/bolted P1: gear/ 1 bolt. P2: gear. P3: 5 bolts
First ascent: Jan. 3, 4, 11, 2001. Vitalio Echazábal, Aníbal Fernández
60M rappel from 3rd belay; 30M reaches 2nd belay of Huevos Verde y Jamon.
The route starts just left of Huevos Verde Con Jamon. After a bolt the rest
of the first pitch and all of the second ascend protectable cracks.
95. Amulatazo Limpio. 5.11d / 7a
One pitch <30M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco and Aníbal Fernández
This route is a variation of the first pitch of Huevos Verde con Jamon. It
splits to the left from Huevos Verde con Jamon after the 4th or 5th bolt,
and ascends the roof to an independent anchor.
96. Huevos Verde con Jamon. 5.11c / 6c+
P1: 5.11a. P2: 5.11c
2 pitches 60M
Bolted P1: 11 bolts. P2: 13 bolts
First ascent: January 6, 13, 2001. P 1: Carlos Pinelo, Armando Menocal. P2:
Vitalio Echazábal, Aníbal Fernández
60M rappel from 3rd belay; 30M reaches 2nd belay.
This five star route starts just outside the cave at the base of Milenio
Wall. It climbs up to and then out the right side of the first roof. Overhanging
jugs continue up the face for two pitches and join a sloping ramp. The 11c
/ 6c+ crux is moving onto the ramp. "Huevos Verde Con Jamon" was
named by the Cubans for John Middendorf from the name of the Dr. Seuss
classic, Green Eggs and Ham, which John brought, in Spanish, and read from
aloud. As a display of the degree of overhang, on the initial attempt of
the first pitch on top rope, Armando Menocal came off at the roof and he
flew out more than 50' over the valley.
97. Ay Papito 5.13?? / 7c+ - 8a
One pitch <30M
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco and Aníbal Fernández
It is to right of Huevos Verde con Jamon and goes to an independent anchor.
Ensenada de Raúl
Upon reaching the snug meadow and fields of the Ensenada's enclosure, the
first three areas will be in view. Muralla Pitu is a small crag on the
left, partially hidden, with a shallow corner in the center. Punta Repaso
is a relatively clean and obvious wall between two overgrown gullies. Cross
the field to reach both Pitu and Repaso walls. Trozo del Lider is a small
pinnacle almost in the middle of the Ensenada. Ensenada Escondrijo is in
the next small ensenada, or hidden ensenada the Ensenada, behind Trozo del
Lider. Dos Palmas is visible on the left side. The Torre Blanca area is on the
right behind trees, almost immediately upon entering the Ensenada.
Muralla Pitu
The first three routes are on a partially hidden wall on the left after
reaching the Ensenada. Pitu is shallow book in the center of the area.
98. Comiquita. 5.10b / 6a
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: March 2005. Josué Millo.
Comiquita starts about 2M to the left of Pitu.
99. Pitu 5.10b / 6a
1 pitch 20M
Bolted 6 bolts
First ascent: April 7, 2001. Aníbal Fernández
A popular route. Often shaded. Pitu and Mojaita start in the book.
100. Mojaita. 5.10a-b / 6a
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: March 2005. Reiniel Sosa and Junior (Yuniesky) Gónzalez.
Punta Repaso
101. El Puso El Bolt 5.6 / 4+
1 pitch 30M
Bolted
First ascent: April 12, 2001. Vitalio Echazábal, Carlos Pinelo.
Although only one pitch, it has an intermediate belay station,
intentionally placed, to create a multi-pitch experience for beginners. The
route is to the left of Ojos Carmelitas.
102. Ojos Carmelitas 5.9 (+?) / 5
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2002
This route is between El Puso el Bolt and el Repaso, and was put up by one
of the Brits in April, 2002. Rating needs confirmation, since it is less
frequently done as some feel there are long distances between bolts
(although not by gritstone standards).
103. El Repaso 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch 28M
Bolted 9 bolts
First ascent: April 6, 2001. Vitalio Echazábal
An instantly popular route for beginners to follow and lead.
Trozo de Lider
El Trozo, which means something
apart, is in the middle of the Ensenada.
104. Guides Route 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch 12M
Bolted 3 bolts
First ascent: March, 2000. David Ryan, Scott Cole, Armando Menocal
How many climbing guides does it take to climb 35-feet? Three, apparently
was the answer. This is a popular beginner's route, so much so that the
Cubans have renamed it Lider, since it is often a first lead.
105. Ratoncita Peres. 5.6 / 3+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: April 2005. Josué Millo.
A few meters to right of Guides/Lider.
106. Cucarachon. 5.6 /3+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: April 2005. Reiniel Sosa and Junior (Yuniesky) Gónzalez.
Ensenada Escondrijo
107. Dos Palmas 5.10a / 5+
1 pitch 15M
Bolted 4 bolts
First ascent: March 18, 2000. David Ryan, Paul Tichner
Dos Palmas means two palms, because of the two palms near the top of the
route.
108. Cuerpo Colorado 5.9 / 5
1 pitch 6M
Gear
First ascent: March 20, 2000. Scott Cole
This is short route is on the wall across from Dos Palmas, and well hidden
in trees. It does have bolts to rap, but these are often missing.
109. Eternos Jovenes 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch 21M
Bolted 3 bolts
First ascent: April 15, 2001. Scott Cole
The route is 30' to the left of Torre Blanco. "Eternos Jovens"
means "forever young". The inspiration words, however, came from
one of the ubiquitous CCP political signs.
Torre Blanca
This group of routes are to right, behind trees, after first entering the
Ensenada de Raúl. Another popular introduction to Viñales climbing. All but
Invernando are moderate, and thanks to trees, shaded.
110. Torreando. 5.9 / 5 or 5+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: November 2004. Yarobys Garcia and Josué Millo.
The first bolted route to the left of the group
111. Torre Blanca 5.9 / 5 or 5+
1 pitch 15M
Bolted 4 bolts
First ascent: March, 2000. David Ryan, Paul Tichner.
The smallish "tower" in center, identifiable by its vertical columns.
112. Psicología Infantil 5.9 / 5
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: November 2004. Josué Millo and Flaco (Adrián) Pérez.
Inside corner, about 2M right of Torre. Psicología Infantile and the next
two routes go to the same anchor.
113. En La Sombrita. 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: November 2004. Josué Millo and Flaco (Adrián) Pérez.
114. Otra Pasta. 5.9 / 5
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: November 2004. Yarobys Garcia and Josué Millo.
115. Invernando. 5.10 b-c / 6a+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: December 2004. Yarobys Garcia and Josué Millo.
After a short face to a ledge, the route is a wide, off-width crack, and
can be much harder for the un-initiated.
Arista de Filo de Cuchilla
"Filo de Cuchilla" is the "Razors Edge" because it
ascends an arete or edge and may be the sharpest rock anywhere. It also
reaches a small summit. To approach, walk up trail toward the Ensenada de
Raúl until level with the base of the buttress, and follow a horizontal
trail to the right.
116. Freebies 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch ?M
Gear
First ascent: April 6, 2001. Fernando Paulete
The route is on the lower left wall of Filo de Cuchilla, and practically in
Ensenada de Raúl. Since it was a gear route and has no known second ascent,
its location awaits Fernando's return.
117. Marcelino, Pan! . . . Se Vino. 5.10b / 6a
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Marcelino ??.
This is an alternative to the first pitch of Filo de Cuchilla. It starts
about 5M to left of Filo and climbs directly to first pitch anchor.
118. Filo de Cuchilla. 5.10b / 6a
P1: 5.10b. P2: 5.10a
2 pitches ?M
Bolted P1: 10-11 bolts. P2: 10 bolts
First ascent: March, 16-17, 2000. David Ryan, Armando Menocal, Carlos
Pinelo
"Filo de Cuchilla" is the "Razors Edge" because it
ascends an arete or edge and may be the sharpest rock anywhere. It starts
up a grey wall. An additional hazard to the sharp rock was the large Maja,
on Cuban Boa, that was once pulled out from under one of the rocks at base
-- on which the belayer was seated. With Ryan's permission a bolt was added
at the crux; it was the only gear placement on the route and part of the
rock at the placement had broken off. (Chris Lane, Great Britain:
"Some [of the routes] are destined to become classics--Filo de
Cuchilla and Huevos Verde con Jamon to name just two. Hey what good rock,
and sharp! too sharp for comfort in places.")
119. Hara Kiri. 5.10 b - c / 6a - a+
1 pitch ?M
Bolted
First ascent: Jan. 24, 2001. Aníbal Fernández
This is a variation of the second pitch of Filo de Cuchilla. It uses the
first bolt of the 2nd pitch of Filo de Cuchilla, and then goes straight up
an independent line of bolts. The rating may be low. Echazábal was caught
on video doing a big dyno at the crux.
Torre La Muerte de Menoco
A true, but hidden tower, with both moderate and hard routes, and much
still unexplored terrain, first discovered by the Millo-Menocal team. The
name is a play on that of the historic painting, "La muerte de Antonio
Maceo", by Cuba's famous 19th century painter Armando Menocal, at the
time that it was uncertain if Menocal would ever return. To find, head
across Raúl's vega and through the gate as though heading for the Ensenada.
Instead of turning left, head straight toward wall and around a large
Jaguay, and then ascend to the left of the base of the tower.
120. EL Asegurador Cuenta. 5.8 / 4
2 pitches
Bolted 4 or 5 bolts on each pitch
First ascent: Josué Millo and Armando Menocal
About 8M up the side of the tower is a roughed out, and not yet stable,
landing and the start of the route.
121. Atalaya. 5.10d / 6b
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: March 2005. Josué Millo.
The start is behind the tower, and can be reached two ways: (1) rappel from
end of Asegurador Cuenta, or (2) circle around right side and climb behind
the tower.
122. Siete Bolts Para Mi Niño. 5.10d / 6b
1 pitch
Bolted 7 bolts
First ascent: March 13, 2005. Josué Millo.
Start about 2 m to left of Atalaya.
Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca
Piedra Mi Cusi
The first area is the small buttress to the left and below the main Cavern
of Wasp Factory. Traverse left from steps and where main ledge begins to
climb, head down about 5 meters to edge of lower-angled wall.
The two routes share the same top anchor.
123. Cara Dura. 5.10c / 6a+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2004. Josué Millo
124. Mi Cusi. 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2004. Josué Millo
Mi Cusi means my little thing.
Wasp Factory
"The Wasp Factory" is
the first name given to the side of the cavernous roof to the left of the
entrance of Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca. Inspection of the area to the left of
the first route, Saca Chispa, will prove that the name is not undeserved.
To admire the tactic and antics employed by the first climbers, an
extremely strong, productive team from Sheffield, UK, to wrest this
spectacular cavern from the grip of the nesting wasps, read the excellent
article by Mickey Robertson in Climber, Dec, 2002. The first six
routes (to La Mierda) start from the same, upper level of the main ledge.
The Beach to Puro Cubano start from along the base of meandering main
ledge.
125. Saca Chispas 5.12a / 7a+
1 pitch 15M
Bolted
First ascent: December, 2002. Josué Millo
The start is 2.5M left of Wasp Factory tufa, about as close to the
profusion of wasps nests as you can climb. Chispas is sparks; thus,
it takes/robs your spark/energy.
126. Wasp Factory 5.12c / 7b
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2002. Neil Gresham
Wasp Factory climbs to the enormous hanging tufa at half height on wall. It
has become one of the Valley's "must do" climbs.
127. The Colony. 5.13b / 8a+
One pitch 30M, including Wasp Factory
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2002. Neil Gresham:
The Colony is Gresham's extension of Wasp Factory and climbs all the way to
the top in one 30M pitch. Gresham reports that The Colony "has a
desperate boulder problem crux."
128. Esplendidos. 5.13b / 8a
One pitch 25M
Bolted 10 bolts
First ascent: April, 2002. Tim Emmett
The route starts up a bulge or block in front of the wall. Tim's
description deserve to be quoted completely: "The route up to the hole
is 'Esplendidos'. We de-wasped the route so it should be clear but beware.
Check the bolts are tight too. Some of them started to work loose. Quality
- Totally awesome, one of the best 8a's you'll ever do. Starting off at 45
degrees it then steepens getting progressively harder the higher you get
saving the crux for the last two moves. Clip the belay off the no-hands
rest with your foot in the pocket."
129. The One Inch Punch. 5.13d - 14a / Hard F8b
One pitch 30M (including Esplendidos)
Bolted 15 bolts (including Esplendidos)
First ascent: April 25, 2002. Tim Emmett
This is the extension of Espendidos. Another incomparable Emmett
description: "Once you get to the rest at the hole on Esplendidos,
shut your eyes, think of Bruce Lee and dispatch it. Two finger pockets lead
the way to the top with the desperate 'one inch punch move' off a poor
left-hand side pull. I fell of this move at least 12 times before finally
hanging the two finger pocket that leads the way to the lower off. The best
route I have ever done." And currently the hardest route in Cuba. Neil
Gresham added that it is was as good if not better than "The Rose and
the Vampire" (Boux) and "Punks in the Gym" (Australia).
130. La Mierda 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: 2002. This inexplicable route was done by a very strong team
of Poles.
The route starts up the first couple of bolts of Esplendidos, then heads
right, attempting to follow the line of tufa columns under the Wasp Factory
roof. From the name, its creators did not have a high opinion of their
route. This and the next two routes share the same bathroom-humor theme:
The Shit; Tiolet Paper; and Wipe Yourself.
131. Papel Hijienico. 5.110d / 6b
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo.
Starts 1.5 m right of La Mierda and joins that route after 3 bolts.
132. Límpiate. 5.11d / 7a
one pitch
Bolted
First ascent. Josué Millo and Caco (Raiquel) Reyes.
Starts 2 m to right of Papel Hijienico, and climbs an overhang, eventually
utilizing the last 2 bolts of La Mierda. Millo gives the route an
"R" rating.
133. The Beach. 5.12a / 7a+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: April 2002. Anna Greissing, Mike Robertson.
This is the first independent line to the right of Esplendidos and starts
off the lower buttress. It has quickly earned a Five Star rating.
134. Chimeneando. 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: June 2002. Josué Millo
Chimeneando is to the left of Totisnao, and this is the original but less
natural start of Totisnao. The routes join after the around the sixth bolt,
and then both routes climb the roof and dihedral-like section above.
135. Totisnao. 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: June, 2002. Aníbal Fernández, Josué Millo
To the left of Martillazo, similar start, but easier.
136. A Martillazo Limpio. 5.11d / 7a
Two short pitches 30M
Bolted
First ascent: June, 2002. Josué Millo, Reiniel Sosa.
The route starts to the left of the small cave from which Kid Expresivo to
RM start, and climbs a hard face (crux) to a slabby section and then the
small roof. The second pitch is an easy face. Linking the pitches produces
lots of rope drag. The Cubans hand-drilled the route; hence name which
means "Pure Hammering."
137. Na Pa Pie. 5.12c-d / 7b+ - c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo, Alberto Leivas, and Reiniel Sosa.
This and the next route are variations on the start of a single climb, and
join about 3 bolts above the start.
138. La Mocha. 5.11b / 6c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas.
This starts about 5M to the right of A Martillazo Limpio.
139. Quien Dijo Miedio Habiendo
Hospitales. 5.11d - 12a / 7a -
a+
2 pitches
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo.
Starts on a stalactite about 1.5 m to the left of RM.
140. Kid Expresivo 5.11b / 6c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Aníbal Fernández
Start at an overhanging crack.
141. RM 5.10b / 6a
One Pitch <30M
Bolted
First Ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco, Rosa Catalá, Ernesto Guerra
The route climbs up the tufa system at the right edge of the first cavern
which is to the left of Puro Cubano. It may be a grade harder than original
rating.
142. Chao Pescao. 5.10d / 6b
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: April 6, 2005. Josué Millo.
The climbs from Chao Pescao to Cubanitos en la Red are on the rib of rock
to the left at the top of the stairs, between the RM cavern on left and
Cueva Cabeza la Vaca on the right. The original lines have been altered,
new anchors placed, extensions added, and confusion produced. A little
history may help. Puro Cubano was the first route, and it was one pitch
(Ryan-Menocal): it originally climbed from the top of the stairs, headed a
little left, then back right to ascend a small roof, and finally after the
roof, it went slightly right to an anchor against the upper headwall; from
there Echazábal added a second pitch traversing right, then up. A direct
start has been added to the first pitch of Puro Cubano, its anchors have
been moved to the left, and Maya is a second pitch extension from the new
belay. On the original Puro Cubano line, Fernández added bolts after the
top of the first pitch roof to avoid going to the original belay and the
rope drag encountered by starting the second pitch with a traverse. Chao
Pescao is a variation of the first pitch of Puro Cubano, starting at the
same point at the edge of the steps and uses the first bolt of the original
Puro Cubano, and then stays left of the small roof, but ends at the new
Puro Cubano belay.
143. Maya. 5.12c / 7c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Abel Pérez and Loisbel Silvelio.
This is a second pitch extension from the new Chao Pescao-Puro Cubano
belay. It heads up left from the belay.
144. Puro Cubano 5.11 b - c / 6c - c+
P1: 5.10b / 6a P2: 5.11b-c / 6c - c+
2 pitches
Bolted P1: 7 bolts. P2: 8 bolts
First ascent: March, 2000. Vitalio Echazábal, David Ryan, Armando Menocal
The route starts at the top of the steps to Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca, and is
now done by following a direct line up, 2 or 3 bolts having been added to
the start, to reach the original Puro Cubano line to and then over the
small roof (the crux). A new belay is to the left original one, and it also
the belay of Chao Pescao. The first pitch of Puro Cubano is a popular
moderate. To do the second pitch head slightly right after the roof to
reach the original anchors. Another option is to follow bolts after the
roof for a direct start to the 2nd pitch, avoiding the rope drag
encountered by starting from the belay.
145. Cubanitos en la Red. 5.11a / 6b+
2 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Reiniel Sosa.
This route uses the new Puro Cubano start and then heads right above the
edge Cueva Cabeza la Vaca. A second pitch has added and top-roped. No
red-point or rating.
El Rocódromo
El Rocódromo has become the climbing gym of Viñales; the place where
tourists go (or are brought by guides) to watch climbers; and the
rendezvous for Cuban and visiting climbers. Classes of Cuban school
children pass through; farmers take the Cueva short-cut to other vegas. It
is the site for guide-climbing training; climbers from La Habana have
camped there. You can hike through the cave to the other side of the mogote
without a light. It is cool almost anytime; always dry. There is even a
concrete ledge to rest, watch, sort gear, or sleep away the night's
overindulgence. The concrete steps, ledge, even the large boulder at the
entrance from which you can watch or photo the climbs, were the work of the
Cuban Army, which uses caves as part of Cuba's civil defense system, and is
still preparing and dynamiting openings to caves and caverns -- the big
entrance boulder was part of the cave ceiling until it too was blown up (or
down). There is bouldering along its wall. The first climbing was by an
American boulder, who hooked out along the ceiling to place anchors for a
top rope boulder problem ("Taking the Bull by the Horn," 2000).
El Rocódromo's first climb, "Malanga Hasta la Muerta," 2001,
follows the line of the top-rope problem, and Malanga Hasta La Muerte has
become the test piece for the new climbers of Viñales. It is a rare
afternoon that someone is not attempting its fierce overhangs. All the
routes that exit the cueva climb to the original anchors of Malanga.
Fittingly one of the newest route is named "Otra Mano Pa El
Pulpo" (Another Tentacle of the Octopus). In view of its heavy use,
please keep the area clean. Do not use the concrete box as a garbage can --
there is no pick-up service. Raúl Reyes often has a wooden fence at the entrance
to keep his goats from escaping. Take care of it. It is thanks to his
generosity that climbers have access to this unique setting.
146. Misericordia. 5.12b / 7b
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Reiniel Sosa.
Starts just inside the cave and stays just inside the cave roof to the
anchors of Malanga Hasta la Muerte.
147. Tiburones Viñaleros. 5.12d / 7c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Ned Harris and Alberto Leivas.
Starts at left of cement box, and joins Malanga Hasta la Muerte at the
fourth bolt. The name, the Sharks of Viñales, probably does not refer to
the local climbers, but to the many local jineteros -- uh, that is, the
dance instructors of Viñales.
148. Camino al Infierno. 5.11d / 7a
1 pitch 15 m
Bolted
First ascent: April 7, 2005. Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas.
This improbable routes spurns the obvious direction of all the Cueva's
other routes, and climbs back into the cave, ending in almost total
darkness. A headlamp may even help locating the belay. Starts from the top,
right edge of the military cement box, and head into the cave, generally
staying on the left side of the cave roof. This route and the next four
climb the roof, from the front toward the rear of the cave.
149. Tres Mosqueteros. 5.12b / 7b
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas.
150. Na Pa Nadie Pa. 5.12c / 7b+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas.
151. Haista. 5.11b / 6c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas.
152. Candilejas. 5.11a-b / 6b+ c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo.
153. Andurina. 5.13b / 8a
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Fransua Bosmenier.
Andurina through M-1 are on the right side of the cave, and as those above,
climb from the front toward the back of the cave.
154. Chicharones. 5.13a - b / 7c+ 8a
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Fransua Bosmenier.
155. Guiro Que Te Escachas. 5.12d / 7c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Caco (Raiquel) Reyes.
156. Golondrina. 5.11a / 6b+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Caco (Raiquel) Reyes.
157. M-1. 5.13b / 8a
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Put up by Josué Millo, but thus far climbed only a Venezuelan
climber.
158. Malanga Hasta La Muerte 5.12d / 7c
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: May, 2001. David Brasco and Rosa Catalá.
Malanga Hasta La Muerte has become the local test piece. It gets yo-yoed to
the point that some neophytes can flash it, but hang and tremble on an
lla/6b. This route replaces and climbs above Taking the Bull by the Horn, a
top rope-boulder problem, which was abandoned when someone, somehow managed
to steal the hangers from the top bolts.
159. Taking the Bull by the Horn 5.11
Top rope/boulder problem 5M
Bolted 2 bolt-anchor
First ascent: March, 2000. Frank Zacherl, Paul Tichner
Reported strictly for historical purposes. The route has been replaced by
Malanga Hasta La Muerte.
160. Otra Mano Pa el Pulpo 5.12d / 7c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: March 17, 2005, Josué Millo and Reiniel Sosa
This is a 3-bolt variation of the start of Malanga Hasta la Muerte, about
12 M to right. It is the fifth route that ends at the Malanga anchors.
161. Jineteras a Lo Suyo. 5.12d / 7c
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Martín Moline and Ariel Pasqualeitti
This independent line starts about 3M to the right of Malanga. It stays to
the right of Malanga and goes to the Malanga belay.
Esquina de los Guajiros Americanos
This small buttress has several excellent routes, each easily accessible
from the cement steps. There are even a pair of concrete landings where the
routes start.
162. La Cuchillita 5.10b / 6a
P1: 5.8. P2: 5.10b
2 pitches 28M
Bolted/gear P1: 3 bolts. P2: 4 + gear (#3 Friend)
First ascent: March 13, 2000. David Ryan, Armando Menocal
The first pitch of this route is a very popular beginners climb. The bolts
were added by Ryan for this purpose. It starts at a landing 33 steps from
the top of the cement steps to Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca. The second pitch
ends with some runout 5.9 climbing. A #2-3 Camalot protect this section.
Someday, someone will add a bolt.
163. Guajiros 5.11a / 6b+
1 pitch 30+M
11 bolts
First ascent: March 22-24, 2000. Scott Cole, Armando Menocal
This excellent route climbs the left side of the gold wall. It is sustained
climbing up pockets. The hanger of the first bolt gets stolen. The route
starts 56 steps down from the top of the cement steps.
164. Guajiras 5.11b / 6c
One pitch
Bolted
May, 2001
David Brasco and Rosa Catalá
Guajiras shares the same start as Guajiros, the ascends to the right to an
independent anchor.
Vega de Pelon
These routes are in small valley on the other side of Cueva de Cabeza la
Vaca. It was originally, but mistakenly thought that the vega was known
locally as Vega de Crespo, and so some may still use that name. So far
three walls encircling the vega have been climbed, but by far the most
routes are on the Paredón, named for Josué Millo who has done all its first
ascents to date. It is most commonly reached by walking up to and through
Cueva de Cabeza la Vaca, which can be traversed without a light. On the other
side, follow the dirt trail down to the valley. Then, facing back to the
mogote, the first two routes are to the left; the main wall of the
Paredón/Mural de Josué is to the right 100 to 150 meters along a trail. The
Esquina the Pelon is farther down the trail. The area can also be reached
by continuing along the dirt road that passes Raúl Reyes' vega for about
one kilometer until pass the toe of the Mogote del Valle, and then hiking
back into the vega. This is also a pleasant hike out after climbing in the
Vega de Pelon.
Jaruquiño
165. Escabiosis. 5.11c / 6c+
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Aníbal Fernández and El Chino (José Luis) Gomez.
166. Nicotina. 5.9 / 5
1 pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Aníbal Fernández and El Chino (José Luis) Gomez.
Paredón de Josué
167. Calentando Baterias 5.10b / 6a
One pitch
Bolted 6 bolts
First ascent: October, 2002. Josué Millo
The route is at the left edge of the wall, about 1M right of a large
jaguay.
168. Chan Chan de Ilusiones 5.11b / 6c
One pitch
Bolted
First Ascent: January, 2003. Josué Millo.
This and the next route share the same start and first two bolts. The route
then ascends straight up. Its anchors are those of Calentando Baterias.
169. Tarentola 5.10c / 6a+
One pitch
Bolted
First Ascent: October, 2002. Aníbal Fernández and Josué Millo.
The route starts 3M right of the jaguay at left edge of the wall, and
follows a crack. An excellent and popular climb.
170. Romeo y Regleta 5.12c / 7b+
One pitch
Bolted
First Ascent: January, 2003. Aníbal Fernández and Josué Millo.
Start about 3M to the right of the crack on Tarentola.
171. Guajiro Natural 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch
Bolted
First Ascent: January, 2003. Aníbal Fernández and Josué Millo.
A crack just 1M right of Romeo y Regeleta
172. Por lo Raja de Tu Falda. 5.11b-c / 6 c-c+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Junior (Yuniesky) Gónzalez.
This and Economisando climb to the same anchor.
173. Economizando. 5.10b-c / 6a-a+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Reiniel Sosa.
The route starts atop a large boulder. The first bolt was place later, as
part of Revercible. However, it protects against a long grounder, to down
below the boulder.
174. Revercible. 5.10b or 11b / 6a or c
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Caco (Raiquel) Reyes.
Two ratings because of the options at the 6th bolt: left is 6a, but right
is 6c. Starts atop the boulder, up and right over a corner.
175. Mujer, Peligro y Placer. 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Junior (Yuniesky) Gónzalez.
Starts at the right of the large corner.
176. Mancha en Mi Expediente. 5.13b / 8a
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Junior (Yuniesky) Gónzalez.
177. Pies de Homo Habilis. 5.12b / 7b
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Reiniel Sosa.
This route and the next one, Dame Luz San Valentín, share top anchors.
178. Dame Luz San Valentín. 5.11d / 7a
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Alberto Leivas
179. Melodia Celestial. 5.11a / 6b+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: January, 2003. Alberto Javiel Leivas and Josué Millo.
Start just to the right of a large tufa column. The route starts from the
top of blocks.
180. Terapia de Miedo. 5.12a / 7a+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Caco (Raiquel) Reyes.
181. Sorpresa. 5.10d / 6b
One pitch (second pitch project)
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo and Caco (Raiquel) Reyes.
Starts far to the right
Sector Geisha
These two routes are on a small corner about 200 meters to the right of
Paredón of Josué.
182. Pichulina San 5.12b / 7b
First ascent: Aníbal Fernández and Abel Pérez.
183. ??. 5.10c / 6a+
First ascent: Abel Pérez.
