A photo of farmer Raúl Reyes and Cuban climber Maikel Rosabal in front of Raúl’s fruit kiosk. 15 years ago, Raúl was the first Cuban farmer to befriend visiting climbers. He freely gave us permission to cross his land to the immense cliffs that today are the most popular climbs in Viñales Valley, such as Cueva Cabeza la Vaca, Milenio, Ensenada de Raúl, and even my namesake Torre Menoco. Raúl welcomed us and gave us fruit every day. More important, Raúl gave the Cuban climbers vital vegetables. The first Cubans, such as Vity, Anibal, Mederos, were from Havana and thus on-the-road like us, but without the cash to buy food. As more climbers and hikers came, Raúl built a kiosk to sell fruit. Later Raúl added a charming hostel. In 2012 the government closed all access to the backcountry and tried to put a checkpoint on Raúl’s farm, since it was the crossroads to the entire Mogote del Valle for visitors, locals and even other farmers. Raúl ran the guards off his land. He has even denied access to the park’s official guides. Raúl was never permitted to rent the rooms in his hostel to visitors. He still works his farm daily and sells fruit to the many who cross the token blockade. That is real-life cojones.
Raúl Reyes and Maikel Rosabal, January 2014
