Cuba’s Valle de Viñales has that combination of high quality rock, accessibility, and ambience to suggest that Cuba could become one of the finest sport climbing areas of the world.  The climbing is superlative.  Cranking jugs and pockets in chiseled karst limestone on improbable lines through stunning overhangs of stalactites and tufa columns.

 

The Valle de Viñales is now a national park and a World Heritage Site, touted as the most spectacular scenery in all Cuba.  Overhanging limestone faces on 1,000 foot freestanding crags called "mogotes" rise above traditional thatch-roofed Cuban houses and red-soiled tobacco farms.

 

The lush Viñales Valley in mountainous western Cuba is an hour-flight from Cancun and only a little longer from Canada and Europe, and home to the best limestone this side of Thailand.  It has recently seen the influx of leading climbers, such as Lynn Hill, Timmy O’Neil, and Neil Gresham, and the development of a strong contingent of Cuban climbers, who are eager to climb with visitors.

 

The Valle de Viñales now has over 250 routes and 300 pitches of climbing. Perfect climbing days, mild weather, and everything from isolated beaches to caving and cock-fights on rest days.  Add an exciting, sensuous nightlife, the gregarious, vivacious Cuban people, and Cuba may already be the best outdoor adventure experience anywhere.

 

Viñales has remained a cozy, rural town.  Despite its popularity with tourists, Viñales itself has no large hotels, restaurants, or souvenir shops.  After a couple of days in town, you will feel at home, at ease finding your way around.

 

CubaClimbing.com was created to be the first stop for anyone thinking about travel to Cuba.  This information-packed, noncommercial website is also an electronic climbing and travel guide to Cuba.  This thumbnail will give you a quick overview of the more detailed information available on CubaClimbing.com.

 

Because of the comprehensive information provided, however, not all pages are updated as changes occur.  The Essential Cuba and Routes pages, with the basic information on all climbing routes, are current.  The climbing information will be replaced by a guidebook to be published in 2008.

 

Costs and Accommodations

Cuba's charm is its people.  The quickest way to meet them is to stay in the homes of Cubans who rent rooms. These are called "casas particulares," and almost any casa particular is better than a hotel.  When you are a guest of a Cuban family, they accept you as another family member or neighbor.

Before 2004, prices could be given in U.S. dollars.  Then the Cuban government devalued all foreign currencies by 8% and the U.S. dollar by an additional 10%.  Now prices are in the Cuban Convertible Peso, CUC, usually called the “chavito,” but Cubans will give prices as “dolares” (dollars) or pesos, meaning chavitos.

 

These prices are in chavitos, but that means if you are converting U.S. dollars, up them by 18% and any other currency, by 8%.  Hotel rooms start at about $50. Casas are $25-$35 in Havana, and less in Viñales.  Meals were $6-$8 in casas; breakfast $2 or $3.  Beer or a glass of rum, $1. In Havana, figure on a total $40/per/day, and in Viñales about $30/per/day.  For $500, it is possible to spend a day or two in Havana, and the rest of a two week trip in Viñales.  Save $15 for the taxi ride to the airport and another $25 for the airport tax.

 

Don't ask about camping.  It's an enormous effort, and misses the enchantment of Cuba.

 

Climbers have travel and accommodations in La Habana and Viñales totally wired.  In Havana, the favorite casas are Ana María Fariñas,  Salvador Allende (Carlos Tercero) No. 1005, e/Requena y Almendares, Plaza, tel. 878-29-46; or anacaribe@yahoo.com, and Esther Cardoso, the mother of the leading Cuban climber Aníbal Fernández Cardoso, Aguila #367, e/Neptuno y San Miguel, Centro Habana. 862 04 01.  esthercv2551@cubarte.cult.cu.  Esther has beautifully reconstructed a colonial home and is exceptionally convenient for sightseeing.  As a actress and teacher, her living room can include a cross section of modern Cuban culture.  Ana María's house is near the bus station, some rooms with kitchens, and is a little cheaper.  Both women are savy, vibrant, and openhearted.

 

Getting to Viñales is about the easiest transport in Cuba.  There are two bus lines, each with one bus a day, seats on demand for dollars ($8 and $12), and lots of taxis.  Renting a car is expensive and is not necessary.  Within the town of Viñales everything can be reached on foot.  All the climbing areas are within walking distance or a short cab ride.

One casa has become the climbers' basecamp in Viñales.  The house and the food are excellent, but once again it is the family of Oscar Jaime Rodriguez and Leida Robaina Altega that become your friends and protectors. Adela Azcuy #43, Viñales, Pinar del Rio, 087-93381.  Oscar can put you in touch with the local climbers.  Take care in Viñales for everyone will want to "guide" you or claim knowledge of climbing routes and locations, hoping for tips, meals, or commissions for directing you to another casa.  Oscar is the sure, safe bet.

It helps to get in touch with Ana María or Esther via phone or email, so that they know the day that you are arriving, and Cuban immigration requires that you have a confirmed reservation for your first nights in Cuba.  It is best to wait to call Oscar or other casas  in Viñales after you are in Cuba and have an exact itinerary.

There are many other excellent choice of casas in Viñales.  Here are a few more: León León, Adela Azcuy 35 (next door to Oscar).  León y Caridad have exceptional food, and are another caring, hospitable family setting.  Hours can past sitting on their porch visiting with four generations of family and neighbors.  Eufemia León and Mario are next door to León on Adela Azcuy.  Together this group of casas around Oscar’s, plus his own in-laws, Rosa and Natividad, are a perfect choice for a group of folks who want to stay close to each other at excellent casas.

Another choice is Maria Elena Urra, Adela Azcuy #5a, 79 3183.  Effectively a small apartment, with its own dining room and kitchen for guests.  Right in heart of town, and run by wonderful family, Mari, the wife of Valle Son guitarist and friend of many a climber, Papito Hernandez.

And the families of several Cuban climbers also provide food and lodging. A newly-opened casa is run by the mother of climber Jessy Gomez, Sergio Dopico #7.  Another climber casa, is Villa El Cafetal, Martha Martinez y Amador Rivery, Adela Azcuy, Norte.  This charming yellow house is the last one on the road to the most frequently visited routes, and thus extremely convenient.  Martha’s and Amador’s son, Edgar is a climber.  A beautiful yard and gardens with coffee trees, and they serve excellent home-roasted coffee.

 

Raúl Reyes is the farmer who’s farm is the access to much of the climbing areas in Viñales, and he’s been the climbers’ best friend.  His nephew, Caco, is one of the hot young Cuban climbers.  Raúl’s wife, Esthelita, and his son, Yoan, rent in town.  Very convenient, just off first turn into town, and you can get a daily ride to crags on Raúl’s tractor!  Rafael Trejo # 134. 79 3263. yoanreyes@yahoo.

 

Cuban Climbers

An indigenous climbing community has developed in Havana and Viñales. Hooking up with Cuban climbing partners is easy.  In Havana, contact Alexei Suárez, Calle 104 #4108, e/41 y 43, Marianao, 260 4053.  Alexei can be reached via email: nadia.sanchez@infomed.sld.cu.

In Viñales, any of recommended casas will put you in touch with Cuban climbers.  In the evening, many of the climbers can be found outside the music clubs in town.  Surest bet: any afternoon, go to the local climbing gym, El Rocódromo, the entrance to Cueva de Cabeza La Vaca, one kilometer from town.

The best contacts in Viñales are Josué, Alberto, and Yarobys.  You can’t go wrong if you ask for one of them: Josué Millo, Calle Rafael Trejo #108,  josueescalari@yahoo.es, 79 3278; Alberto Leivas, Dopico Norte, Segio #7.  Yarobys Garcia, usually at the Joventud Club, just off the town plaza,  roylan04012@pri.jovenclub.cu

We strongly urge that you consider donating gear to help sustain the Cuban climbers.  To make sure that it gets to neophyte climbers and is distributed fairly, please leave donations with Alexei in Havana and Josué, Alberto, or Yarobys in Viñales.  If not there is good chance it will be sold -- just check out the pieces of climbing ropes being used to tie up horses and oxen.

Cuban climbers always need bolts and hangers (stainless steel only, at least 3 1/2” x 3/8”, and camo hangers preferred), 12-volt batteries and chargers.  There are only two racks in all of Cuba.  Cams and hooks are needed.

Climbers always need shoes, resole kits, harnesses, and ropes.

And a final injunction: please don't bring donations of worn out gear.  It's hard to get gear to Cuba, and it's a waste to bring stuff ready for the trash heap.

 

Logistics, Seasons, Weather

Most routes can be done with only quickdraws. 60-Meter ropes are recommended: 30M routes are common, but multi-pitch routes require two 60M ropes to get off. 18-20 quickdraws is sufficient. Route difficulty is provided in both YDS and French grades.

Climbing in Cuba is based on minimizing impacts.  No chipping or drilling holds.  No "comfortizing" holds.  Avoid colorful slings and anchors at the tops of climbs.  Please bring only camouflaged hangers.  Bright, unpainted hangers will be removed.  Ground-up routes are a necessity.

Cuba can be hot, but it is not the sweltering, muggy sweat-box of Southeast Asia.  Nowhere in Cuba is far from the moderating, gentle tradewinds.  December through March are ideal.  October and November, still the tail end of the hurricane season, and April have proved pleasant for climbing.  Summer is a rainy season, but with overhanging routes and north facing walls, climbing is available all year.

Other than newspapers, magazines, books, and medicine, Cubans and visitors can buy almost anything with foreign currency  Bottled water is available, although tap water is potable and safe.

 

Currency

Until 2004, currency was one of the easiest parts of travel to Cuba, and the only currency travellers needed in Cuba was U.S. Greenbacks, even if you were coming from Europe.  Now it’s the opposite.  Converting currencies is necessary and try to bring Euros, Canadian dollars, anything but U.S. dollars.  Not just that, there are two Cuban currencies in circulation, the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC), which is all tourists need, and the Cuban Peso, in which Cubans are paid and use only at official “quota” stores, not accessible to visitors.

The Cuban government devalued all foreign currencies against the Cuban equivalent, the Cuban Convertible Peso, by 8%.  And it imposed an  additional 10% penalty if you convert U.S. dollars.  So, for $100 USD, you will receive 82 in the convertible peso, abbreviated as “CUC” and popularly called the “chavito.”  Further confusing things is that Cubans will still give prices in “dolares” (dollars), when they mean chavitos.  And they will also say “pesos” to mean chavitos or sometimes the Cuban peso, which is 1/25 the value of the chavito.  Some explanation is available at the official Central Bank website, http://www.cubacurrency.com/banco_popular_de_ahorro_bpa.html.

 

Getting There

There are flights to Cuba from the Caribbean, Latin America, Canada, and Europe.  Look for cheap flights or charters from Cancun, Jamaica, Haiti, and the Dominican Republic.  Canada has the best deals; there are charters covering air, room, and food, that are so cheap that you can fly and afford to blow-off the resort hotel and its bad food.  Usually the cheapest flights to Cuba are Cuban Airlines, the state-run airline that flies ancient and scary Soviet-era planes.  For a fairly comprehensive listing of departure cities, see www.nashtravel.com/gateways.html.

 

Special Rules for U.S. Citizens and Residents

Travel to Cuba for Americans has become increasingly difficult and risky.  That is solely because of the draconian, misguided, inhumane, counterproductive, and just plain stupid policies of the current United States Government.  Much of the information we provide in the Travel Cuba page for Americans is not current.  For example, educational travel either on people-to-people exchanges or university programs is prohibited; although humanitarian, religious, and professional travel exist on paper, in fact the U.S. government ignores its own regulations and either denies such travel or most commonly just does not respond.  Even Cuban-Americans have found it almost impossible to visit or help their families in Cuba.

However, the reality of the situation for U.S. citizens and residents is that thousands go illegally every year, and although the U.S. has ramped up enforcement and tries to impose a civil fine on anyone it catches, (1) the actual chances of detection are very small, (2) if you follow our advice in the Cuba Travel page, “What If You Are Caught”, you should escape any fine, and (3) even if you mess up, the fines are less than the $7,500 that the U.S. threatens, averaging $1,000, since the U.S.’s puffed-up  enforcement.

Americans who are hesitant should read Beth Wald’s article, “Banned” in Climbing (No. 248, 2006) about her illegal trip to Cuba with Lynn Hill, Timmy O’Neil, other climbers, and Lynn’s 9-month old baby!  Intimidated?  This troupe laughed its way through Homeland Security’s Cuba blockade.

Illegal travelers from the U.S. must go through a third country, such as Mexico, Bahamas or Canada, and usually a U.S. travel agent cannot handle arrangements to get there.  It is easy to do, although going via a third country is still illegal.

To book the convenient Cancun-Havana flights, contact Viajes Divermex, (98) 84-50-05, 87-54-89, 87-54-87 FAX: (98) 84-23-25, divermex@cancun.com.mx.

 

Visas

Cuba welcomes tourists, including those from the United States.  In general, travel to and within Cuba is not restricted.  A valid passport, which does not expire within six months of traveling there, is required for entry. Visas from Cuban government embassies are available, but not necessary.  Instead travelers need only a tourist cards ("tarjeta de turista") issued by travel agents and airlines that fly to Cuba.  Cuban immigration stamps the tourist card rather than the passport.

 

More Information About Cuba

There are very good guidebooks.  Lonely Planet (Jan 2004), as all LP guides, it is the bible for budget travel. Moon Handbooks Cuba (Nov 2000), dated but by far the best.  A new Moon edition will be out soon, and there is also a Moon guide to Havana.  The author, Christopher Baker, has three other excellent books on Cuba: a must read, Mi Moto Fidel: Motorcycling Through Castro’s Cuba; The National Geographic Traveler: Cuba; and Cuba Classics: A Celebration of Vintage American Automobiles.  Rough, and Bradt (2000) also have Cuba guides.  LP also has Cycling and Diving and Snorkeling Guides to Cuba.

For a comprehensive link to other websites, ranging from arts and culture to Fidel Castro's speeches see: http://www.lanic.utexas.edu/la/cb/cuba/.

The best source for current news is Cuba Net: http://www.Cubanet.org/cubanews.html.