El Palenque: Sierras de Viñales and de La Guasas
This area includes the Mogote Palmarito, Cuba Libre Wall, Cueva de San Miguel, Mr. Mogote Wall, and the sport wall, El Palenque. It is only four kilometers north of town, easy to reach on foot, and by cab or bike. It is possible to hitch back to town at end of the day. If you are getting a ride, say that you are going to El Palenque.
At the center is El Palenque Disco, which may be the cushiest, indulgent "advance base camp" in climbing. El Palenque is a-cave opening-bar-by day-disco-at-night known locally as just El Palenque, although called Cueva de San Miguel in guidebooks.
The bar provides rest and refreshments after climbs and bouldering in heat and rain; a trad route has been done in the cave. A lit passageway begins at the bar and exits on the other side of the mogote at another restaurant which is frequented for lunch by large groups in tour buses. Take a flashlight in case of the frequent electrical outages.
To access the Cuba Libre Wall routes, take the trail that starts behind the left-most building from El Palenque. A high trail runs below "Mayabe","Najita," and "Cuba Libre". "Paradiso Escondido" is at the far left of Cuba Libre Wall, reached by starting on the Cuba Libre trail then taking a lower, intermittent branch for 2-300M and then up a "tree tunnel" to a free standing white tufa column at its left edge. This is "Colmillo Blanco" and "T.P.R." To reach alcove that is Paradiso Escondido, either climb the first pitch of Colmillo Blanco and traverse left and through a hole into alcove, or hike left from T.P.R. and then up into the alcove.
To the right of the bar, a paved trail runs along a featured wall with "Ay, Ay, Ay Palenque".
El Palenque wall is directly across from the road that turns into the disco. To reach the base, jump a fence and cross a field for 50'. Mosquitos can be thick here.
"Ferocity Wall" is the orange streaked blank-looking wall on the north side of the road, between El Palenque and Mr. Mogote walls. It is a three minute walk from the road.
"Mr. Mogote" is reached by a good trail which starts from the road, at the saddle or high point between Sierra de Viñales and Sierra de Guasasa. The trail meets the wall uphill of the start of "Mr. Mogote," but exactly at the foot of the 120-foot free rappel from "Casa Gringo," a bivy site at the end of the second pitch. The cave has been used as a campsite by climbers.
Mogote Palmarito is new area near the road from town to El Palenque. It is a low mogote off the east side of the road, with a free standing pinnacle on its south. The pinnacle can be seen from the road, and there is a dirt road that provides access to the fields adjacent to the pinnacle.

Mogote Palmarito

1. Sueno de las Chicas 5.10b / 6a
One pitch
Bolted 7 bolts
First ascent: November, 2002. Paul Laperriere.
From the south, the prominent feature of the pinnacle is a large hole part way up. This route starts 2M left of the hole.

2. Zero Positivo 5.10c / 6a+
One pitch
Bolted 6-7 bolts
First ascent: November, 2002. Markus Leicht.
Starts from hole.

3. Moneando 5.9 / 5
One pitch
One bolt, rest is slings and threads
First ascent: November, 2002. Josué Millo.
Starts up a tree and uses the top bolts of Sueno de las Chicas.

Paradiso Escondido

4. Psico Driller. 5.11c / 6c+
P1: 11a. P2: 11b. P3: 11c. P4: 10a
4 pitches
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2002. Aníbal Fernández, David Ryan
An instant classic because of its stunning setting, surrounded by hanging tufas, stalactites, and columns. Fernández and Ryan never agreed on its name. Originally and aptly named Dagas del Cielo or "hanging daggers," the name Psico Driller (Taladro Loco in Spanish) has prevailded. It is the first route in the alcove known as Paradiso Escondido. To reach, follow directions above into the alcove. Dagas del Cielo is the orange colored face split by a left-leaning crack. Bring a couple of long draws for start of second and third pitches. Descent: one 60m rappel.

5. Santanilla 5.11c / 6c+
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: Josué Millo
This is a harder variation of of the first pitch of Dagas del Cielo. It starts to the right of Dagas.

6. Colmillo Blanco 5.10a / 6a
P1: 5.9. P2: 5.10a
2 Pitches
Gear/bolted P1: gear/ 2 bolts. P2: 3 bolts
First ascent: March, 2000. Craig Luebben, David Ryan
"Colmillo Blanco" means White Fang. This fun route climbs the prominent free-standing pillar at the left edge of Cuba Libre Wall. The route starts on the inside of the pillar, circles left to the outside of the pillar, and goes through a cramped, awkward roof protected by two bolts. Some medium cams also help protect the first pitch. The second pitch is up another short overhanging section. Two short rappels.

7. T.P.R. 5.9 / 5
One pitch 25M
Bolted 6 bolts
First ascent: April 10, 2002. David Ryan
This is a direct, bolt-protected variation of the first pitch of Colmillo Blanco. It climbs straight up the swiss cheese column, joining the regular route about two-thirds up the way up, but below the crux. T.P.R. is the Cuban shorthand for a root canal.

Cuba Libre Wall

8. One Percent 5.11c / 6c+
2 pitches 50M
Bolted P1: 10 bolts. P2: 3 bolts + "fixed removable bolt"
First ascent: March, 2000. Cameron Cross
This route is a weave up through one of the alcoves along the Cuba Libre Wall to the left of Cuba Libre. Approach along the lower trial.

9. Pollo del Mar 5.11d / 7a
Two pitches 25M
Bolts and threads
First ascent: April 13, 2002. Grant Farquhar and Mike Robertson
Start on top of the tufa pillar right of the bay containing One Percent. Follow the bolts right along the ramp to finish on top of the huge dangling stalactite. Someone has to follow the pitch, and two by 60m ropes required to abseil to the ground. Grant reports that it "is very, very exposed."

10. Medico de Salsa 5.12a / 7a+
Two pitches 35M
Bolted
First ascent: April 4, 2002. Grant Farquhar and Austrian Anna Greissing.
A harder, direct start to Pollo del Mar, joining it midway along the traverse. Start in the bay through the hollow tufa under Pink Lady. Follow the bolts up and right finishing up Pollo Del Mar. Again second must follow to clean, and two by 60m ropes required to abseil.

11. Pink Lady 5.11b / 6c
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2002. Mike Robertson.
See photo topo by Mikey Robertson. Mickey calls it "ridiculous territory for the grade." And he adds this description to prove it, "'Pink Lady' is 7 bolts to twin-bolt belay, F6c, by me and Seb Grieve. Finishes with a mad bridge on HUGE fang. Start the route by climbing 'inside' the pillar (a kind of 'tube'), then get the belayer to throw the rope up, so's you can tie in. Weird but true."

12. Moscow Mule 5.12b / 7b
One pitch
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2002. Seb Grieve.
See photo topo. Lots of sneaky rests on this one.

13. Captain Hook 5.12c / 7b+
P1:7a. P2:7b+
Two pitches
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2002. Seb Grieve.
See photo topo. Magnificent first pitch, reachy second.

14. Our Man in Havana 5.12b / 7b
One pitch 40M
Bolted
First ascent: April 19, 2002. Grant Farquhar.
This is an alternative second pitch of Captain Hook. Grant says to climb to the ledge (5.11d/12a), and pull rope through to reduce rope drag after clipping the first two bolts off the ledge. Continue up the right hand line of bolts past a drainpipe tufa to finish on the lip of the crag. Grant adds, "Link this with first pitch of Captain Hook to give the best two-pitch outing on the crag."

15. Cuba Libre 5.11d -12a / 7a - a+
P1: 5.9/5 P2: 5.10b/6a P3: 5.12a/7a+
3 pitches 50M
Gear/bolted P1: 5.9 gear. P2: 3 bolts. P3: 7 bolts
First ascent: Feb. 18, 1999. Craig Luebben, George Bracksieck
This is now the original classic, which finishes with a thoroughly wild top pitch! Cuba Libre is another acrobatic Luebben route. For someone not schooled in off-width technique, the climb may prove straight-forward, although probably way harder. The final roof is split by an off-width section, which Luebben climbed by jamming his feet above him, cutting loose his hands, and reaching through to the next handjam. On his first attempt, with a crowd of campesinos taking a break from cutting grass with machetes watching, Luebben let out long, gruesome screams as he hung from his feet. Then, he fell. It appeared to all that he had been stuck in the crack. Wrong. His slippers were stuck, just as he wanted them to be, but he was slowly, inexorably slipping out of the shoes. Luebben returned to the ground, switched to lace up shoes, and completed the first ascent. Descent: a 50M rappel; or the leader can be lowered by a second at the 2nd belay station.

16. The Rum Diaries 5.12c / 7b+
One pitch 27M
bolted 13 bolts
First ascent: April 11, 2002. Charlie Woodburn.
This is the direct start to Cuba Libre, or as Charlie says, it "gives Cuba Libre what it might have been looking for - sustained moves for the grade. Long, and wicked!" From a small bay through a little tunnel on the right side of the main bay, start up a large stalagmite and climb up a steep rib. Move left on small holds (crux) to a good rest and then continue straight up the steep wall to join Cuba Libre. Because of the drop in level behind the starting bay, the only way to lower to the ground and strip the route with a 60m rope is to clip into a bolt halfway down and then clip in and rethread the rope through an in situ carabiner.

17. Najita 5.11b / 6c
P1: 5.10+. P2: 5.11b
1 Pitch 30M
Bolted P1: 6 bolts; P2: 6 bolts
First ascent: April 17, 1999. Cameron Cross, Craig Luebben
This was first done as a one-pitch climb, ending at double-bolts at the top of the cave. Careful, the crux, although protected, is the traverse. Cross later exited the cave and added a couple of bolts so that it links with Nieve de Mayabe. It can be done as one pitch with a 60M rope, but a second 60M rope must be trailed for the rappel.

18. Nieve de Mayabe 5.11b / 6c
1 Pitch 30M
Bolted/gear 10 bolts
First ascent: April 18-19, 1999. Craig Luebben
"Mayabe" is a superior local beer (superior, that is, to Crystal, the "Budweiser of Cuba", similar both for its lack of taste and its ubiquity). Luebben cleared away the fog of a hangover putting up this fine route. It can be done as one pitch with a 60M rope, but a second 60M rope must be trailed for the rappel.

Cueva de San Miguel.

19. Ay, Ay, Ay Palenque 5.8 / 4+
1 pitch ?M
Gear
First ascent: 2000. Aníbal Fernández
This is on the short face to the right of the disco, straight up from the paved trail. There are no bolt anchors at the top.

20. Jungle Warfare 5.11b / 6c
P1:6b+. P2: 5+. P3: 6c
Three pitches 54M. P1: 36m. P2: 16m.
Bolted
First ascent: April, 2002. Anna Greissing, Mike Robertson.
The route is found on the obvious crag at the back of the fields to the rear of the cave disco, just past the open-air restaurant there, finishing in a small but obvious cave with a huge thread inside it. Two belays, but Mikey recommends linking pitches 1 and 2, "leaving last, hard pitch, to be climbed with no rope drag." Two rappels with 2 x 60M ropes.

El Palenque Wall

21. Socialismo? Oh! Muerte 5.10a / 5+
1 Pitch 25M
Bolted 11 bolts
First ascent: Feb. 28, 1999. George Bracksieck, Skip Harper, Armando Menocal
The route's name is a Cuban joke for how to punctuate the government's ubiquitous "socialismo o muerte" slogan. The Cuban climbers call the route "Friendship."

22. Confiscado 5.11b / 6c
1 Pitch 25M
Bolted 10 bolts
First ascent: Feb. 28, 1999. George Bracksieck, Craig Luebben
The day that this route was done, a peso taxista was caught at a police roadblock outside of Viñales, carrying 8 of the Cubans and Americans on their daily trek to the crags. His car was confiscated and his "patente", his taxi-license was also seized. He eventually got these back, but was heavily fined, and a peso-taxi has never again transported climbers in Viñales.

23. Allez, Allez, Allez 5.11a / 6b - b+
1Pitch 23M
Bolted 8 bolts
First ascent: Feb. 15, 1999. Craig Luebben
The route is named for a disco song popular in Cuba in 1999 that could be heard coming continually from El Palenque during the week that most of the routes were done on this sport wall.

24. La Kirenia 5.10d / 6b
1 pitch 30M
bolted 12 bolts
First ascent: 1999. Javier Alvarez, Carlos Pinelo
Named for one of the Cuban climbers, Kirenia Garcia.

25. Mi Amore 5.11a - b / 6b+
1 Pitch 22M
Bolted 4 bolts
First ascent: Feb. 14, 1999. Craig Luebben
The route was done on Valentine's Day, and Luebben had his mind on his wife Silvia, an Italiana. This was the first route climbed on El Palenque wall.

26. Clasica 5.10c / 6a+
1 Pitch 22M
Gear
First ascent: Feb. 26, 1999. Craig Luebben
Using the root is permissible, if not essential, if the route is to be done at its present rating.

Ferocity Wall

27. Mr. Nice 5.12d / 7c
One pitch 30 metres
Bolted 10 bolts to belay
First ascent: April 20, 2002. Charlie Woodburn.
This is currently the only route on Ferocity Wall, the orange-streaked wall up the hill from El Palenque wall. About a 3-minute walk from road. start 4m right of a large corner. Climb straight up to the diagonal break and then move left along this to a large ledge. Move right to left hand end of it, below the groove/flakeline. Climb the flake line up and right past where it runs out to an obvious pocket. Continue straight up the wall on small crimps and a hard rockover (crux) to the belay. A long quickdraw on the 4th bolt helps reduce drag. Charlie gives it five-stars. However, as with El Palenque Wall, mosquitos can be really bad here.

Mr. Mogote Wall

28. Mr. Mogote 5.12a / 7a+
Luebben named each pitch:
P1: Donde Esta La Guagua. 5.11d/12a.
P2: Aloe Highway. 5.8.
P3: White Wall. 5.11c.
P4: Tufa Paradise. 5.11d/12a.
P5: Mr. Mogote Meets Mr. Mogote, 5.11A
5 pitches 200M
Bolted P1: 8 bolts. P2: 3 Bolts. P3: 10 bolts. P4: 5.11d 12 bolts. P5: 8 bolts
First Ascent: March 1-3 and April 15-16, 1999. Craig Luebben, Cameron Cross, Vitalio Echazábal, Skip Harper, Carlos Pinelo
Luebben's determination in leading the second pitch with machete and drill, chopping through cactus and barbed aloe plants, earned him the title of Mr. Mogote. Months later, when climbers from La Habana were repeating the climb, a car stopped far below them, and the unknown driver starting shouting up to them, "Craig, Craig, Craig". Truly Craig Luebben is believed to be Mr. Mogote.
Although the first pitch has fooled good climbers, the third pitch, as described by Luebben, is the crux: "The third pitch climbed a beautiful, vertical white face. From a cushy belay cave, an overhanging tufa system led upward. Pinching and liebacking the tufas gained some buckets, then another steep tufa system led to a sharp limestone slab." Craig Luebben, "Climbing on the Island of Revolution," Rock and Ice, Oct., 99, page 67. The second pitch again needs cleaning with a machete, and wasps have reclaimed the crux on the second pitch. Bring polve piojillo.